Thursday, March 13, 2008

Three Days in Marfa - Day 1

It has already been two weeks since our journey to Marfa, TX, so before more time passes here's our Marfa experience, somewhat stream of conscience...

Day 1, Feb. 28
Fly into El Paso, rent a car, head East. Ten minutes from town is when the wide open space begins, along with the higher speed limit - 80mpg, which means we go 85. We're promptly pulled over by a highway patrolman with a striking resemblance to Tommy Lee Jones. He was real nice and gave us a warning, and I almost asked for his autograph.

The countryside is fantastic, especially once you pull off I-10 and onto Highway 90. To your right is the mountains that spread out to Big Bend, and on your left is grasslands and rumbling cargo trains. Decompression begins set in. Our driving CDs: Dave Brubeck, White Stripes.

Three hours after leaving El Paso, we're in Marfa, Texas, a town long on our to-visit list. Our friends Kate and Willy, who live in Houston, are so cool that they decided to get married in this quirky, funky, artsy, dusty outpost. It's pretty much just past the middle of nowhere in West Texas, but has transformed into a contemporary art mecca in the last couple of decades. To read more about the town's original artsy cheerleader Donald Judd and the Chinati Foundation, click here.

So we pulled into the Thunderbird Hotel, a stylish little modern hipster-type place opened by the folks who brought us the lovely San Jose in Austin. Kate, the bride, greets us in the parking lot, jumping up and down and clapping and looking as blissfully happy as a bride ought to look. Hugs, kisses, checking in. Lovely room, WiFi and ethernet, iPod docking, quirky gifties, etc. Made the mistake of not transferring to a room NOT below someone else (lots of noisy footsteps overhead), but real nice, nonetheless. Kate/Willy's romance package includes a great CD of funky love-related tunes, bottle of champagne, and pink christmas lights strewn on the floor. Very cute.

Kate and I enjoy a Shiner Bock by the pool (ahhh), then rally at the T-bird Lounge with the other early-arrivers Claire and Pat, another fun Houston couple. I have a Snake Bite, which here means Apple Cider and Plum Wine - YUM!

We shoot some sunset photos, then head 20 minutes east to the town of Alpine for dinner at the Reata Restaurant, which makes fine "Cowboy Cuisine," including amazing jalapeno cheddar grits and bacon-wrapped asparagus! We feel so special, having such an intimate night with the blushing couple.

On our way back to Marfa, we pull over to the Marfa Lights Viewing Platform. Much has been written about the Marfa Lights, so I won’t go into detail. But they are indeed very strange and cool and should definitely be on your “One Day…” list. It’s very chilly and windy, and the sky is so HUGE and clear. The Milky Way does indeed still exist! Melancholy over living in a place with only one or two visible stars sets in – as does fatigue from the long day. One more drink at the T-bird Lounge (music: Pixies’ Debaser), one more round of hugs, and off to bed. TK: Days 2 and 3...

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